Thursday, November 4, 2010

Fabric Knowledge

 Many different types of clothing, as the basic form of clothing, variety, uses, production methods, raw materials, different types of clothing have shown different styles and characteristics, changing, very rich. Different classification methods, lead us to the title of clothing are usually different. Currently, there are several general classifications.

First, the basic form of clothing categories

the basic form of clothing based on the structure and shape classification, can be summarized as body type, style, and mixed three.

1. Body type body type clothing is in line with the body shape, the structure of clothing that originated in cold regions. Form of the general wearing of such clothing is divided into two parts, upload and download. Upload and human chest, Xiang Jing, adapt the form of arms; download are found on the waist, hip, leg shape to pants, skirt-type based. Cutting, sewing more rigorous focus on the outline of clothing and body shape effects. Such as body suits, mostly class type.

2. Style type style type clothing is loose, stretch the form of cloth covering the human body originated in the tropics as a clothing style. The clothing does not rigidly adhere to the body's shape, more to be free, cutting and sewing process to a simple main effect of the plane.

3. Hybrid structure of the clothing is mixed boreal and tropical style body type synthesis, a mixture of forms, both the characteristics of the two, cut a simple planar structure, but the body as the center, the basic rectangular shape, such as the Chinese Robes Japanese kimono.

Second, the combination of clothing to wear, use, material, manufacturing process classification

(a) by wearing a combination of classification

There are several general categories:

1. Upper and lower parts of the whole installation connected to the clothing, such as upload and download because of dress, etc. attached to clothing and strong sense of overall shape.

2. Suit dress shirt and downloading separate forms, two-piece, three-piece suit, a family of four.

3. The outer jacket to wear the clothes, a coat, coat, raincoat, cape and so on.

4. Vest to wear sleeveless upper body garments, usually short to waist, hip, between the shape of a little personal.

5. Skirt covering the lower body with clothing, a step skirts, A dress, a round table skirts, divided skirts and so much more varied.

6. Pants from the waist down into the legs to the hip clothing after the form of easy to wear action. With pants, shorts, pants.

(b) the use classification

into underwear and coat two coats. Underwear close to the human body, from body care, warmth, shaping role; coat is worn places as different uses of different varieties class a lot. Can be divided into: social services, daily service,Discount UGG boots, career clothing, sportswear, indoor clothes, stage clothes and so on.

(c) of fabric and craft making classification

Chinese clothing, western clothing, embroidered garments, woolen garments, cotton garments silk garments, fur garments, knitted garments, down garments.

three other classification number

addition to the above classification, but also some clothing by sex, age, ethnicity, the difference between special function and so the classification of clothing.

(a) of the sex

are men, women.

(b) by age

baby clothes, children clothing, adult clothing.

(c) by national categories

a foreign national of ethnic clothing and apparel, such as the Han Chinese clothing, Tibetan clothing, Mexican clothing, Indian clothing.

(d) classification by the special function of a heat-resistant

fire service, hot work clothes, waterproof diving suit, wearing high-altitude flight suit, space suits, alpine mountaineering wear and so on.

(e) by clothing of different thickness and cushioning material to classify

are unlined class, bodysuit type, cotton type, down jackets, cotton clothing.

(f) to sort results by washing clothes

a stone wash, rinse, general wash, sand wash, enzyme wash, snow wash clothes.

four, according to HS classification code

?? Commodity Description and Coding System (TheHarmonizedCommodityDescriptionandCodingSystem) referred to as the Harmonized System (HS), which is in the ) and the United Nations HS code classification to six digits that code, first two digits represent the chapter, third and fourth code is the product of each location in the chapter (by processing of hierarchical order), the first to fourth code Section (Heading), the follow-up to the fifth pick, six yards as Head (Subheading), in front of six digits are the same countries. After the seventh code developed countries according to their needs yardage. Clothing is a HS classification system and third 61,62 XI, Chapter 61 is knitted or crocheted articles, numbered from 6101.1000-6101.9000 total of 120, Chapter 62 for non-woven knitted or crocheted apparel and clothing accessories. For other than wadding, of any textile manufactures. Number from 6201.1100-6217.9000 of 155 codes, respectively, by style, gender, age, to classify the different raw materials such as cotton men's down coat HS number: 6201.1210, cotton Women HS code style down coat is 6202.1210. HS code classification of clothing on the requirements of gender specific clothing requirements, that is, sex men, boys, women, girls and infants; left over placket placket go in the right men, whereas women go, go neutral clothing female categories. Needle, woven garments and clothing accessories, product characteristics in accordance with its annotation classes from the coat to underwear, needles, weaving correspond, once again, compared with other products. If 6203.1100 wool or fine animal hair for the men's suits (for the coat), 6207.1100 for the cotton Nannei Ku (for underwear, encoded in the rear), and if: 6104.3100 as wool or fine animal hair, knitted or The women crochet jacket, and this corresponds to 6204.3100 of wool or fine animal hair for the women's shirt.

five, according to the production and processing of knitted garments feature classification

(a) wool knitwear Category

1. Composition by Material Category

(1) wool type (including wool blended class): can be divided into sweaters, cashmere, camel sweater, lamb wool (Duanmao) shirt, wool blend Shan rabbit , camel wool blend sweater, wool blend Shandeng yak hair.

(2) blended categories: can be divided into wool / acrylic, rabbits sheep / acrylic, mohair / acrylic, camel / acrylic, wool / nylon blend shirt, cashmere / silk blended Shandeng.

(3) pure chemical fiber type (including chemical fiber blended): can be divided into elastic nylon shirt, elastic polypropylene shirt, stretch polyester shirt, expanded acrylic sweaters, acrylic / polyester, viscose fiber / nylon blend Shandeng .

(4) interwoven: can be divided into wool acrylic, rabbit fur acrylic, wool yarn woven Shandeng.

?? 2. Sort by spinning

(1) combed categories: use of combed yarn, knitting wool craft, fine wool, coarse wool sweater woven of various system, weight wool Shandeng.

(2) carded class: The process of spinning woolen yarn knitted sweater made of various lamb, cashmere, rabbit sweaters, camel sweater, sweaters, etc. Shenandoah.

(3) Flower yarn sweater: cashmere knit with color (loop yarn, knot yarn free yarn, pull yarn) woven sweater color system. These sweaters look strange, style, unique, artistic sense.

?? 3. Classification by type of knitting machine sweater type fabric

generally weft knitted fabric, a circular knitting machine products, machine products and two.

(1) Circular Machine Products: circular knitting machine refers to the first cylindrical woven into fabric and then sewn into the sweater cut processing.

(2) knitting machine products: is the use of hand-knitting machine knitting clothing blanks, and then processed into sweaters stitched. May also refer to computerized flat knitting machine knit fabric, sewn into a sweater by the cutting process.

?? 4. Sort by fabric structure

generally divided into single, Siping, scales, jacquard, pull flower, cross-stitch, twisted flowers and other.

?? 5. Classification by modified

pattern can be divided into printing, embroidery, applique, Zhahua, Zhu Hua, disk flowers, nap, milling and gilded leather, and other relief.

(1) Printed sweater: the sweater pattern printed on the printing process used to achieve the purpose of improving beautifying effect, is the sweater of the new varieties. Printed patterns are covered with printing, the predecessor of printing, local printing and so on, look beautiful, artistic and strong infection, decorative good.

(2) embroidered sweaters: The sweaters by hand or mechanical means on the variety of flower embroidery patterns. Delicate pattern of tiny, colorful, to blouses and children's wear as much. A gray embroidered sweaters, embroidered sweaters plain, Caixiu sweaters, needlepoint sweaters, silk embroidery sweaters, embroidered sweaters and other metallic yarn.

(3) brushed sweater: sweater would have been woven into the garment by the nap treatment process, so that the surface of the fabric of dense uniform layer of hair pulled out. Feel fluffy and soft brushed sweater, wearing a light warm.

(4) shrink down shirt: Also known as hair reduction sweaters, woolen sweaters, are generally subject to milling treatment. After milling through thick sweater close texture, soft, plump, smooth surface, dense hair, wearing a comfortable warmth.

(5) relief sweater: sweater in a strong artistic variety, is water-soluble resin shrinkage cashmere sweater pattern printed on, and then deal with the whole sweater for milling, pattern printed on the anti-shrinking agent at the milling does not produce the phenomenon, showing a fabric surface to fulling wool and Notations for the relief-like embossing pattern, then printed decorative relief, so that flowers have a strong sense of three flowers elegant and beautiful, gives a new sense of eye-catching.

(b) the classification of cotton knitted garments

1. Classification by mode of production of fabrics knitted fabrics according to mode of production is divided into two major categories of warp and weft.

2. Classification of the organizational structure according to fabric warp knitted fabrics tricot, single comb section has been the basic organizational level organizations, organized by the satin, the velvet organizations. But in the actual production, such as a coat or shirt or general multi-comb hair with double warp organization. Double comb through the use of a wider fabric is organized by the velvet, the flat inclined organizations and compiled by the oblique chain organizations. The basic structure of weft knitted fabrics are weft plain stitch Organization (commonly known as cotton cloth There are liner organizations, tuck organizations, terry organizations, pineapple organizations, leno, corrugated organizations, plush organizations, organizations lining color weft insertion by organizations and complex organizations.

understand the various classifications of apparel and clothing of different performance characteristics, you can make us clear about the purpose and requirements of garment design, correct choice of fabrics, accessories, and reasonable methods to manufacture, in accordance with inspection procedures provided clothing, and ultimately customer satisfaction made clothing.

clothing by style, color and materials composed of three elements. Which material is the most basic elements. Apparel clothing material is the composition of all materials, which can be divided into apparel fabrics and garment accessories. Here, the main fabric to introduce some knowledge.

one fabric concept: is the embodiment of the main characteristics of clothing materials.

Second, the common fabric

a) cotton fabrics: refers to the cotton yarn or cotton, chemical fiber and cotton blended yarn woven into the fabric. Its permeability, moisture absorption,UGG bailey button, comfort, the popular fabric is practical. Can be divided into pure cotton, cotton blend two categories.

b) of the hemp fabrics: from fiber textile made of pure hemp linen fabrics and linen and other fibers or woven fabrics referred to as hemp fabrics. Hemp fabrics in common is hard texture and tough, rough stiff, cool and comfortable, good moisture absorption, is the ideal summer fabric, hemp fabrics can be divided into two types of pure and blended spinning.

c) silk fabrics: the prevention of high-end products in the varieties. Mainly refers to the mulberry silk, silk, rayon, synthetic filament fabric as the main raw material. It has a thin light, soft, smooth, elegant, gorgeous, comfortable advantage.

d) wool fabrics: is wool, rabbit hair, camel hair, wool fiber as main raw material of the fabric, generally of wool for the living, it is high-grade fabric throughout the year, with good elasticity, anti-wrinkle, stiff, durable wear-resistant, warm and strong, comfortable and beautiful, pure color, etc., by the consumers.

e) of pure chemical fiber fabrics: synthetic fabrics for its fastness, flexibility, stiff, wear washable, easy care collection and loved by the people. Pure chemical fiber fabric is made from pure chemical fiber textile fabric. The characteristics of its chemical characteristics of the fiber itself to decide. Chemical fiber according to different needs, processed into a certain length, according to different process woven into imitation silk, imitation cotton, linen, stretch wool, wool and other fabrics in the long.

f) other fabric

1, knitted fabrics: from one or several yarn continuously along latitudinal or bent into the circle, and each set of the series into.

2, fur: English pelliccia, leather with the hair, generally used for cold winter boots, shoes, shoes or the shoes I decorated.

3, leather: all kinds of tanned animal skin processing. The purpose of tanning the skin to prevent deterioration, some small animals, reptiles, fish and birds of the skin is called in English (Skin), while in Italy or in some other countries tend to use that this type of leather.

4, new fabrics and specialty fabrics: batik, tie-dyed, cotton and other space.

Third, the identification of commonly used fabric

a) sensory method

1, cotton cloth: cloth glossy soft, soft, less flexible, easy to fold . Pinch the fabric by hand after the release, showed obvious wrinkles and creases easily restitution. After taking a few from the selvage, weft twist open view, fibers of varying lengths.

2, sticky cotton (including rayon, rich fiber cloth): Oil on glossy soft and bright, colorful, flat and smooth, soft, less flexible. Pinch the fabric by hand after the release, showed obvious creases and folds easily restitution.

3, cotton fabric: shiny cotton Buming than the bright, smooth fabric, yarn clean without head or impurities. Feel smooth, crisp, elastic cotton fabric than good. Clenched hand and release fabric, crease was not obvious, and easy to restitution.

4, pure wool worsted fabric: the fabric surface smooth and clean, clear and fine textured. Soft gloss natural, pure color. Soft, elastic. Release the hand clenched face it, crease was not obvious, and can quickly restitution. Most of the double-stranded yarn.

5, woolen woolen woolen: it fullness, texture, close and thick. Surface with fine hairs, is generally not exposed weave. Feel warm, plump and elastic. Mostly coarse count yarn yarn.

6, wool-polyester blended wool fabric: the appearance of a wool fabric style. Textured surface it clear, smooth, soft wool fabric feel better, there is stiff roughness, elastic than wool and woolen hair sticky. Clenched hand side and release it,bailey UGG boots, crease rapidly restitution.

7, Maoqing blended woolen: mostly worsted. Hair feeling strong, with a wool style, a warm feeling. Elastic than wool-polyester.

8, wool blended woolen Jin: what surface is smooth, hair feeling strong, the appearance of a wax-like luster, and feel stiff. Hands clenched it expected after the release, there are obvious creases, can slow restitution.

9, silk: silk smooth fine surface clean, soft gloss, color purity. Feel smooth, soft, light and elegant appearance. Under dry conditions, the hand touch silk surface with pull handle, tear have a

10, viscose silk fabrics (one silk): bright and shiny silk surface, but not soft, colorful, smooth feel, soft drape strong, but not as light and elegant silk. Hand silk surface after the release, creased, and the slow recovery. Tear when the hoarse voice. After, after the weft wet wet, easily pulled off.

b) combustion identification method

fiber combustion characteristics of several commonly used list:

cotton close to the flame, melting is not indented. Contact with the flame, the rapid combustion, flame orange, blue smoke. Leave the flames continue to burn. A small taste of ashes from the burning paper, was linear. Ash soft,UGGs, light gray, hand touch and easy to powder.

Ma ibid., less ash, light gray, or white, touch and easy to powder.

wire close to the flame, curling does not melt. Contact with the flame, slow burn. Leave the flame to extinguish. Orange flame and small. Burning feathers or burnt flavor from dark brown hair ball, touch easily into powder.

hair close to the flame, curl does not melt. Contact with the flame, smoke, combustion, air bubbles. Leave the flames continue to burn. Sometimes self-extinguishing, flame orange. Feathers or burnt hair burning smell from the ashes of more amorphous form shiny black lumps, like the end of the touch and easy ash

glue close to the flame, the rapid burning, the ashes of orange flame burning paper smell less, dark gray or light gray

polyester close to the flame, the first contraction after the melting. Contact with the flame, melting burning. Leave the flames continue to burn. Flame yellow-white, bright, top with linear black smoke. Special aroma, dark brown amorphous lumps or small balls that can be crushed with 

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